Restaurant Review: Stella’s 4.6/5.0

The mood is softer than a Biaggi’s. There are three floors. The noise is specific to each level. Moreover, the restaurant has been a Perrysburg institution for years; the clientele and atmosphere are more traditional and luxurious than hipster. Most people know the story of Stella’s namesake. Beautiful French woman swept a man off his feet. He opened a restaurant and keeps free form paintings of Stella on the wall behind the bar. She is blond with chestnut skin, curvaceous body, and suggestively arching back.

Eat at Stella’s when there’s live music. Imagine Paris in the 1920s, meeting famous writers and drinking wine with Picasso. This is the allure of the film, “Midnight in Paris,” and Stella’s paradoxically transports you to France with a contemporary French-inspired menu. As well, the atmosphere brings out a number of fantasies; resent the couple with a perfect table overlooking Louisiana Ave; order expensive Bordeaux just to say you did; and that glass of pinot noir your friend never finished, two wasted ounces.

The food, well, is as close to Iron Chef worthy as you’ll get in Northwest Ohio. Customers eat off a variety of geometrical plates, and the servings are adequate and beautiful to look at. Back in the day, a place like this would give, at minimum, fifty percent off a main entrée, or sometimes a free meal for someone’s birthday. But there’s a recession, so you get a small stained glass made by a local artist. It’s better sentimentally than bad ice cream at a sushi restaurant.

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