At first glance, Biaggi’s looks like a glorified college cafeteria. They didn’t dim the lights; the carpet, chairs, pillars and walls are a darker hue, a cross between burnt umber and mahagony. If you wear orange or beige, you will awkwardly blend into the décor. I went to Biaggi’s a couple months ago on a Friday night. It was loud like cliques of young adults gossiping at a luncheon. Tonight, the noise is coming from the bar located near the front entrance. Businessmen with pints of beer blend the front lobby into an extension of the bar, and I can smell the spoil of their breath as I pass by. Since the ceilings are approximately forty-feet high, my theory postulates that Biaggi’s open seating, coupled with those high-ceilings, reverberates such penetrating echoes.
The server brings us water and bread quickly. Olive oil is drizzled onto a side plate; then a heap of parmesan cheese and course black pepper that blends with the oil like ant mound and water. We order appetizers: bacon-wrapped dates ($7.99) that are rich and tangy, and a beautiful plate of Carpaccio ($8.99). One orders the salmon and shrimp Milanese. The description references “creamy Italian rice.” Cultured Northwest Ohioans exclaim, “Risotto!” Another person orders eggplant parmesan ($13.99). We also have lasagna Bolognese at the table ($13.99). I ordered the Sicilian meatball pizza ($9.99). The pizza is a traditional Sicilian pie – big square, heavy dough, and lots of toppings.
All in all, most people will enjoy Biaggi’s. The food is kind of bland, but there is salt and pepper at the table. The atmosphere is ruckus and the service slow. Might have been better had I ordered wine.